Kids, Don't Try This At Home!

Hi, and welcome to the adventures of "Triton", a 45' Robertson & Caine Leopard catamaran we purchased in July of 2007, in Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands. We sailed her back to Emeryville, California, located in the lovely San Francisco East Bay area, worked a few more years, then set off cruising in the fall of 2014. This journal is the story of our ongoing adventure, the folks we've met along the way, and the hardships and joys of that journey. Please read along and let us know what you think!

You can click
here to start from the very beginning of the entire adventure. You can navigate from post to post simply by clicking the NEXT or PREVIOUS phrases at the top or bottom of each page. To find out what we've been fixing, changing, upgrading, click on the Triton Boat Work link under Related Websites. If you want to subscribe to this blog (and get emails letting you know whenever we update it) just click on the icon that says "subscribe to: posts (atom)" at the bottom of each page.

Showing posts with label Cartagena. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cartagena. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Thunder, And Lightning, And Swears, Oh My!


PREVIOUS ENTRY | NEXT ENTRY


Hello Blogicity,

Well, we've only been here in Punta Culebra a few days but already we've had more than our fair share of terrific times. In case you don't know, terrific originally derived from terrible, just like horrific derived from horrible, except 1950's movie goer's didn't know that and just assumed that "TERRIFIC" splashed across the poster meant watching something scary was really great. As someone whose recently did just that, I think they were wrong, but then again, I don't like horror movies any more than I like watching Zeus play darts with my boat.

Our story should start with "It was a dark and stormy night", but it was a dazzlingly bright and sunny day out when we left Triton at anchor and headed into shore for a quick brunch and maybe some shopping. Now any mere mortal would not have the strength of character, the sheer discipline, the military like training required to believe, against all evidence to the contrary, that the calmly lapping waters, the spotted blue skies and the gentle breeze tussling our genuine "Kunawear" [made in China, trademark pending] cotton weave shirts, (even though the barometer was rising and the humidity was dropping) was actually nature's way of winding up with a sucker punch. But we proud few, we men of experience, we band of soggy brothers knew better.

No, our heroes were, from weeks of prior surprises, completely ready for Mother Nature's little jokes. We'd developed a keen, almost rigid faith in the sky's ability to part whenever we let our guard down or left an opening in the boat unattended. To that end, we'd dogged the hatches of almost every portal, made sure there was nothing left above decks that could get ruined and stowed anything that might get wet in plastic. Secure in the knowledge that we'd taken every precaution against the rain, we headed over to the dinghy dock looking forward to a delicious meal at the nearby restaurant that overlooked the bay.

But before I continue, I must first describe a character trait in one of the crew that needs some explaining. Lest I belittle anyone in front of their friends, I will use the Latino names we've chosen for each other, to maintain our anonymity. On our "barka" (that's Spanish for "Hey, they're three Gringo's on a boat, lets charge them more") there is El Capitan Retardo, so named for his command of the Spanish language, El Gran Thornia, so named for his stature and his name, and El Hombre de Soggitto del Papel, so named for his belief that all reading materials should be saturated before reading.

For some reason, this shipmate, who will remain almost anonymous, is unable to keep any printed material dry for more than a day. He'd asked for one of those "Teach Yourself Spanish In Three Hours" books, and AnnMarie went to great lengths to bring one down on her last trip. When it arrived, it was the standard eight by ten soft cover trade paperback about one inch thick; after only four days of El Soggitto's wash and dry procedures it is now eleven inches in every direction. He's taken to tearing off chapters from it so he can fit a manageable portion into his backpack without arousing suspicion in the city police. He slices off a hunk at a time the way a butcher might slice off a pound of turkey breast so you don't have to carry home the entire bird.

And his penchant for underwater reading material doesn't end there. We're yet to read a New Yorker that isn't three quarters of an inch thick, or peruse a New York Times that doesn't require an archaeologist to separate the pages. Apparently this is some sort of bizarre religious practice and we don't question it. Much. Some people launder clothes, others money, he washes his library. Let him among us, that is without quirks, cast the first damp ball of wood pulp.

We researched this a bit and discovered that this condition is called Hydrobibliophile, and is treatable only through shock therapy administered simultaneous with cranberry enemas. Sadly, the inverter is only 700Watts - which not enough to completely cure him, and we've run out of cranberry juice and have switched to pineapple, but we're willing to repeat the treatment if he gets anything else soggy. That's just the kind of selfless shipmates we are.

Anyway, I tell you this because, even with all our training, our weeks of experience, our iron willed self discipline, our burning desire not to sleep in the wet spot, El Soggitto still managed to forget a hatch. But, in keeping with his bizarre rituals, it was right above a magazine none of the rest of us had read yet. He still got his bunk wet, which will take decades to dry, but also managed to create yet another mass of black smears on a damp grey background. But I digress...and my editor tells me I use too much prose. She says I need to be more compact, use smaller sentences, less verbiage, cut down on the prose. Other authors have done it, famous guys with missing testicles, so why can't I? Okay, here goes...

We then went ashore. We ate and talked. The skies darkened around us. We talked some more. A bolt of lightening hit. We saw the flash. We heard the thunder. We counted to three. It was very close. Another bolt, closer still. Then another, and another...we were in fear, the skys were angry, bolts of light blazed, flashes of green everywhere, the ozone cracked about...

Fuck that moronic four word Hemmingway sentence shit, it was an amazing light show complete with lightning going sideways, backwards, green and in star patterns. The sound effects were better still, banging around the walls of the open air restaurant and setting off every car alarm for miles around us. If it weren't for the fact that the bolts were landing all around the boat, and with alarming intensity, and we happened to have the tallest mast in the harbor, it would have been a really cool moment. Instead, it was TERRIFIC! As in, it was terrifying and it fucking sucked. Especially since I couldn't remember if our insurance covered being hit with two hundred million volts and burning out every piece of wire and electronics on the boat.

There is an old superstition about lighting among golfers. It says, if you find yourself trapped on an open course, devoid of any tall trees, and a really bad storm starts throwing bolts all around you, the best defense is to pick up a four iron and hold it over your head. The argument being that not even God himself can hit a four iron.

Now, any seasoned sailor will tell you that God helps those who assume he's out to kill them, and that the only proof against a lightening strike is placing your precious electronic gear in a Faraday cage, which is basically a metal box that shields things from the devastating effects of voltage spikes. Its impossible to do this for everything, but you can, at least, easily shield your hand held equipment this way. And, any really clever physicist will also explain that almost every home and boat has a Faraday cage already, in the form of an oven, which is basically a double walled metal box. So, being seasoned, clever ducks we always keep all our emergency electronics in one of those airtight, water tight, yellow plastic boxes, which we place inside the oven.

Except today. It had been left out on the table. That meant that if we did get hit, everything, including our precious satellite phone, our backup GPS, our MOB watches, our direction finding gear, everything that we would need in an emergency, would also be lost. We watched helplessly, in horror, as the thunderbolts slammed down. Eventually the storm ended, and we decided to back to see if there was going to be a boat to go back to. Much to our relief no one in the anchorage had been hit, including us, and nothing on board seemed to have been affected by the storm. We did discover El Soggitto's wash and dry reading material, but as I've said, to each his own.

I should take this time to mention something about hatch designs, lest you all get the wrong idea and think that the boat leaks. Triton, a beautiful, dry catamaran and a wonderful and comfortable ride to boot, must, as must all other vessels, obey the first law of marine physics called "The Conservation of Ingenuity", namely, you are not permitted an abundance of any good idea without a counter balancing design flaw. This rule applies to almost any vehicle, shelter or instrument devised by man.

If someone builds a porch that allows one to sit quietly in the afternoon sun, then by definition, it must have some counterbalancing flaw that makes it unsuitable for, say, blustery days. The Edsel, which was the first vehicle to include disc brakes, four wheel independent suspension and fuel injection, was, according to this principle, counterbalanced by a body design that looked, if it were a woman, like a forty six year old priggish virgin with bad glasses and cramps.

In our case, the brilliant design idea of building the bathrooms entirely out of waterproof fiberglass that can stand any amount of rain such that one could leave both of the small, secure hatches open even when the boat is left unattended, is compensated for, according to the laws of physics, by placing all other hatches out of easy reach, and all situated such that the slightest rain will land in either your bunk, your closet full of freshly cleaned clothes or the fiberboard shelf that runs along the entire length of the saloon. And, in keeping in balance the other great designs of this boat, such as ease of access to the engines, sacrificial keels, a great anchoring system, etc., the shelf has absolutely no place to drain the water. After only a few showers, it has swollen to about three inches thicker than before. We now keep only Jeff's books on it.

It also has a four inch high sill between the cockpit and the salon, which is edged in razor sharp metal. It is impossible to step over this entrance way more than six times without cutting your foot at least once. Mota cut his foot so badly he required a tourniquet. Well, I said he needed a tourniquet, but he wouldn't go along with me.

We have all cursed this idiotic and unnecessary design feature but realize that fixing it means we have to eliminate the really cool engine access panels, or the redundant fresh water pump system. To do otherwise would be to spit in the face of the gods. In fact, if I improve the galley layout, I'll probably have to raise the sill height just to keep the balance of good and evil.

Well, enough of our sad tales. We are struggling through, despite the incredible odds against us, and have managed to survive to tell yet another sea tale. We expect Holly Turner to arrive this evening, haven't heard back from Eric Drake, so it's looking dim for him, but we are preparing to roast a significant amount of marinated chicken and invite some of the neighbors aboard tonight for more lies, damn lies and statistics.

Hoping everyone is happy, well fed, and at least has enough of a life that they aren't reduced to reading these dregs for entertainment. We'll see you all soon enough, although Jeff is threatening to go off to Cartagena instead. He said something about wine, women and song, but I think it's really to check out property values.

Cheers,

Robb


P.S. As I began to write this it was a beautiful, clear day, with a warm fresh breeze and the sun low in the sky. We took advantage of this by opening every hatch on the boat, and giving the vessel a good airing out, something we haven't been able to do for days. The wind streamed through the cabins, Jeff's periodicals began to dry, and our hearts gladdened. Almost immediately, the sky darkened and we saw lightening off in the distance. We ran around quickly closing off every hatch we could and securing anything we'd placed outside to dry. Since then it hasn't even as much as drizzled and it's been hours. Thorny came back from the store and said "Wow, it's muggy in here." He popped open a few of the salon windows. It began to rain. Not enough to really want to close the windows, but enough to know that if we don't we'll have a puddle on the book shelf. Mother Nature is one mother.



PREVIOUS ENTRY | NEXT ENTRY

Tuesday, April 17, 2007

We Are Not Going To Cartagena!


PREVIOUS ENTRY | NEXT ENTRY

Editor's Note: Not all the letters were distributed at the time of their writing. Some didn't get mailed, for whatever reason, others didn't get published because they got misplaced, others didn't because they violated national security and/or obscenity laws.


Fellow Readers,

Sailing is not always wonderful. In fact, most of the time, it is like having small grains of sand dropped into your eyes, with brief periods where you are able to look on the face of God. You are forced to buy the sand, by the way; it's a buck a grain, and God turns out to look a lot like Mel Brooks.

The last twenty four hours were like that; the previous night was windy with gusts above thirty knots, the seas were eight to ten feet of an annoying following swell almost dead on our stern, the current was against us and the chop came from whatever angle it could to bang into us, and the auto pilot stopped working. Whoever was at the helm had to work extra hard to keep us on course, and the thought of accidental jibes (and the captain's unpleasant reaction to them) sat heavy on their minds. At night, with only the red light off the compass to focus on, your concentration becomes intense. At one point, as Jeff was hunched over the helm, a flying fish jumped out of the water, sailed right past his face (about an inch away) and slammed into the salon door to his left. It scarred the shit out of him, and when he told us about it we laughed for hours. We call them kamikazi gefilta fish.


Despite the humor, it is still work to sail this boat in unfavorable winds without an autopilot. Two hour shifts suddenly became an unpleasant chore. The boat's motion isn't as comfortable, the weather isn't inviting, and everyone disappears into their bunks to nap. The wind shifts often, and waves bang around the sides and bottom of the boat. I think I didn't get more than an hour of uninterrupted sleep, popping up on deck each time I felt the wind back around, or seas shift, or boat move differently. I felt like a mother whose colicky child has deprived her of sleep, but can't relax until she knows her baby is doing better. At least boats don't require diaper changes.

The next morning the sun came up, the weather warmed, the seas flattened out, the wind came more on our beam, and everyone relaxed into it. It was a beautiful day for sailing, we had gorgeous weather, everyone ran about with as little on as possible, dolphins swam along side, we played music and sang, had brunch in the cockpit, lazed on the trampolines, and just enjoyed ourselves. We stopped to swim in the ocean, and took pictures using Jeff's water proof (well, resistant, actually) camera of each other doing silly things. It was a glorious few seconds in an otherwise long journey against the weather. We had really hoped for better conditions overall, and would have been a lot better off if we'd brought an asymmetrical spinnaker, a symmetrical spinnaker, a whisker pole, and perhaps a second autopilot, but you can't have everything - at least not just yet.

We still haven't installed the radar unit. We looked around for a rigger in Aruba that could do it, but it isn't the place to find them. Trinidad just wasn't someplace I'd trust anyone to do the work, as it would have been overpriced and probably wrong. Maybe we'll find someone in Panama City. So far we haven't needed it, but the further North we get, the more we will want it.

I'd have also liked to have installed a few more solar panels. The one we have is only 55 watts and it really isn't enough to compensate for the frig, lights, fans, radio, stereo, and various other loads on the batteries. We have to run the engines every day to recharge them, which is loud, smells bad (especially since the wind is at our backs and the exhaust fumes blow over the boat) and it wastes diesel. My goal is to build a hard bimini (the roof over the cockpit area) and cover it with 120watt panels, enough to satisfy our thirsty electrical needs.

I'd also like to add a wind generator off the targa wing (the large fiberglass arch at the aft end of the cockpit, or, more likely I'll build another arch out of stainless steel just aft of it, and run the wind generator off a pole above it. There are so many things I'd like to do to this boat, but I need to get it back home before I can begin. I don't trust that the work will be done right if I'm not standing right there watching, so I might as well do it myself. Plus the cost will be significantly cheaper if I do it - not to mention the satisfaction of being able to say I did. SF is a fabulous place to get parts and equipment, and technical knowhow abounds there, so the real work starts when I get home.

AnnMarie is aboard now, and between her and Mike we are eating like kings. It is amazing how lucky we've been to have two professional cooks (Mike was a chef before becoming a firefighter/paramedic and AnnMarie was the pastry chef for the Fog City Diner in SF) and our appetites have never dimmed. You are supposed to be lose weight on deliveries, but so far I haven't gotten any thinner.

Editor's Note: The above probably isn't true, judging from the photos, but there was definitely real weight loss when Robb spent two weeks in the San Blas Islands, with Jeff and Mota - with no one to cook, eating nothing but canned pineapple, octopus and mayonnaise.


We are heading past Columbia, the hippest place you can travel these days, which is a tantalizing forty miles off to our port side. About once an hour Jeff, or Mota, or Jen, or Mike, or MaryAnn will ask if we can stop at Cartegena. My job as captain, mostly, has been to say (repeatedly and without cessation) "No, we are not going to Cartegena, where the women are famed for their beauty and amazingly large, artificial breasts." or "No, we are not going to Bonaire, famed for its magnificent diving and topless beaches", or "No, we are not going back to lovely island of Aruba, adult playground for Cruise Ship passengers throughout the world, we are going to the Panama canal, the dirtiest ditch of water on the Western hemisphere."

It is a hard job being captain, mostly because I really want to go to all those places, and I'm watching myself turn into the Grinch while refusing to do it. At one point I caught myself yelling at the crew for roughhousing on the aft deck, I was about to say "Stop that this instant or I'll pull this boat over!" It occurred to me that perhaps I needed to just chill a bit. I made AnnMarie take off all her clothes and lie next to me in our bunk, a well known relaxation technique I learned from reading sailing books, and let the crew make as much noise as they want. I'm not sure if it improved everyone's moral, but at least two of us were happier.

Well, there's more to come, so to speak, but we'll close for now, at sea and rocking and rolling along.

Cheers,

Robb


PREVIOUS ENTRY | NEXT ENTRY