Kids, Don't Try This At Home!

Hi, and welcome to the adventures of "Triton", a 45' Robertson & Caine Leopard catamaran we purchased in July of 2007, in Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands. We sailed her back to Emeryville, California, located in the lovely San Francisco East Bay area, worked a few more years, then set off cruising in the fall of 2014. This journal is the story of our ongoing adventure, the folks we've met along the way, and the hardships and joys of that journey. Please read along and let us know what you think!

You can click
here to start from the very beginning of the entire adventure. You can navigate from post to post simply by clicking the NEXT or PREVIOUS phrases at the top or bottom of each page. To find out what we've been fixing, changing, upgrading, click on the Triton Boat Work link under Related Websites. If you want to subscribe to this blog (and get emails letting you know whenever we update it) just click on the icon that says "subscribe to: posts (atom)" at the bottom of each page.

Showing posts with label Puesta Del Sol. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Puesta Del Sol. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

The Saga Begins.


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Hey All,

I arrived very late last night in Managua, but didn't want to take a cab in the dark, so I checked into a local hotel for the night. Getting through customs and immigrations took no time at all. While on line I started talking with an older women next to me. I thought she looked like someone visiting from the bay area; actually, I thought she looked like someone you might see riding on the back of a motorcycle as part of Dykes on Bikes. I think I might have been wrong; she was a nun and worked for an evangelical charity.

She pointed me towards a shuttle that would take me to "The Mercedes", a part of the Best Western Chain of hotels where I could spend the night. On the way over I met Wim, a very nice man from the Netherlands, who was working for an NGO doing charity work in Nicaragua. When I got to the hotel, there were two people in line in front of me. Both of them were carrying very large, well thumbed bibles. The man behind me was chatting on the phone about setting up a prayer meeting. I may be the only unbeliever in the entire country. They put me in room 666, but I'm sure that is just a coincidence.

So, no trip is complete without at least one horrible cab story. This leg of our journey started with the front desk person telling me it would cost $150.00 for the taxi to drive me to the marina. "Okay", please ask the driver to come here", I say, knowing already how this is going to go. He doesn't speak English. "Explain to him that I will pay only $150.00 and nothing else, and he must take me directly to the marina." I tell the clerk. They chat in Spanish for a few minutes.

She then tells me that he doesn't know the way to the marina, do I have a map. I show him the stuff I got off the marina's website. He says he doesn't know how to get there, but that the roads are impassible. It is amazing that he can both not know how to get there, and also know about the road conditions getting there, but this kind of Zen knowledge is part of the Cabbie From Hell job qualification. He tells me he can only go as far as Chinandega, the closest major town, but will only charge me $100.00. I explain that that doesn't help me at all, I need to get to the marina. The desk clerk asks for the number to call the marina, so I begin to look it up, but the power fails, and all their internet connections drop. I've got a map off the marina website which is almost as useful as the Microsoft Help Desk. I realize that the webpages I have saved off don't have the local marina number, and my cell phone doesn't work in Nicaragua yet so I can't call Ann to ask her for this info, and "telephone information" is a new concept in Nicaragua.

Realizing that I'm just wasting time waiting around for the power to come back, I decide to get in the cab and head to Chinandega, but I'm not feeling comfortable about the situation. As we are driving past another hotel I see a huge sign for car rentals, I realize that cab rides for the crew are going to add up, and I could just as easily rent a car. I tell the cab driver to let me off at the next hotel we come to, and I inquire about rentals. The price is $10 a day for the car, and $14 a day for the minimum insurance. That is still cheaper than what it is going to cost me, AnnMarie, and Robinson in cab fares, plus I'll have the ability to go into town when I want. I rent a car and head off into the jungles of Managua.

Now, most Americans will find this hard to believe, but there are no maps for sale in Managua, or parts near by. The reason for this is that there are no street names in Managua, or in parts near by. The idea being that if you don't already know your way around here, you are probably a foreign spy. I thought it was odd that the directions listed on the marina web site didn't mention street names, and included comments like "turn right when you see the rock shaped like a bear", but it didn't occur to me that I'd be navigating my way there. Had I known I would have brought my compass and GPS/Chartplotter along. I stopped about twelve times along the way, each time asking for directions.

Nicaraguans don't like giving simple directions, probably because it takes a lot of Spanish words to say "turn left after you've gone past Jose Gomez's barn that fell down". The fact that I speak eight words of Spanish which don't include "right", "left" or "road" didn't help. Basically, at each fork or intersection, I'd stop, find the most anal retentive looking man I could, and ask him to draw a map. Fully fifty percent of the maps were wrong. I'm sure that if given enough time, I will be able to find my way back to the airport, but I think I may need to hire a guide for the first trip. It is really quite impressive. Even CalTrans could hold their head up high compared to this place.

On the way to the marina I was stopped by police. At least I thought they were police. They were wearing police uniforms, and had guns. They were pointing at my car and directing me over to the side of the road, so I pulled over. There were two officers, and it turned out they wanted a ride up the road. They were not police, but guards at the local factory, and were on their way home. Hitchhiking while fully armed and in uniform is a new one for me. None the less, I spent a few tense moments realizing this, then another ten minutes wondering if I'd just made a really stupid mistake picking them up. They turned out to be very nice folks, we tried our best to communicate, and I even learned the word for "farm", which is all we saw as we drove along, but I've since forgotten it.

Eventually I found my way toward the marina grounds. At about this time the paved roads became gravel roads, and gradually the gravel roads became dirt roads, and then ruts, and then ruts filled with water, and then parts that were just water. At some point along the way I realized I'd made a horrible mistake in not renting a 4x4, preferably a truck. Or maybe a HumVee, if not a tank. The ground was saturated, and I found myself having to do some pretty tricky driving to get past some bad spots. On top of that, it was starting to get dark and I really didn't want to get stuck out in these parts at night. About a mile from the marina I encountered a really bad patch of muck, and pushed the poor little rental car to its limits getting it through. By the time I was driving down the marina driveway my vehicle looked like I'd just finished a Baja cross country race.

As I drove up the driveway I encountered Ron & Diane on bicycles coming the other way. Ron had been watching my boat for me while I was away, and I was bringing down some boat parts for him from the states, so it was a delightful accident to bump into them just as I arrived. Ron is a bit of a character; he is tall and lanky and always making jokes with everyone. He is the kind of guy that somehow knows everyone by name, and is able to befriend even the most reluctant natives. He and his wife Diane have been teaching English to many of the locals, and they have come to recognize his goofy antics and also make fun of him. We hit it off immediately, and have been teasing each other ever since. Its fun to watch him interact with Diane, who just shakes her head at his jests and rolls her eyes as if to say "Can you believe this guy?" They are a very cute couple.

They were bicycling along the road with another cruising couple, Tom & Ann, and were all on their way to dinner at a near by restaurant. We ate at a palm covered palapa overlooking the ocean. The hilltop sloped down to a beautiful beach with what, as I'm told by the local surfing tourist, Brad, is an amazing left break with two hundred yards of run that tubes most of the way. At least, I think that was what he said. I don't speak Surfer any better than I speak Spanish. I just pretended I understood and nodded dumbly. He had brought his guitar, I borrowed one from the restaurant and we sat and jammed after dinner. Eventually we hiked back to the car and I drove into the marina parking lot, glad to have managed to get this far.

So, I've made it back to the boat, which is still floating and doesn't seem much the worse for wear. The battery was dead when I got here, but that was because one of the marina workers decided to shut off the power to my boat but didn't turn it back on. When ever there are serious blackouts and the marina needs to use their own generators, they walk along the docks shutting off everyone's boat that isn't occupied. This is something they've started doing and it really is the only problem I've had with the marina so far. Power is such a rare commodity here that the folks will do anything to reduce their load. Unfortunately, it killed my battery. I've plugged everything back in and started charging it again, but it isn't clear if it will come back. I've decided that batteries are like small infants. They will die unless constantly attended to.

Beyond that, and being unbelievably tired, things are good. I trust the same holds for you, and hope everyone is enjoying themselves as much as I.

Cheers,

Robb


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Wednesday, September 12, 2007

San Francisco or Bust


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PRINT THIS PAGE OUT USING A COLOR PRINTER, AND READ IT AT LEAST TWICE BEFORE LEAVING FOR YOUR TRIP. CHECK OFF ALL THE ITEMS LISTED TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING YOU NEED!

Editor's Note: This email is the latest crew's equipment list and FAQ for sailing from Puesto Del Sol, Nicaragua to San Francisco, California, with at least one stop in San Diego along the way. It is an updated version of the original trip list. It is really intended for crew members, doesn't have all that much humor to it, and is more a checklist than a fun read.

Our suggestion, if you aren't planning on sailing along on this trip, is to skip on to something more interesting (we recommend using the Blog Archive Index on the right and clicking on "Eggerator", "or "Canal Transit", or "Aussie Nature Show") and have fun. If, however, you are planning to sail with us, then the following is required reading. It should contain all the information you need to know about what to expect, what to bring, and how to behave. You can also read the previous posts for other details about how prior trips went, and the issues we encountered.




Hey All,

If you're getting this it is because I believe you have expressed real interest in being on board the catamaran "Triton" during the transit from its current mooring in Marina Puesta Del Sol , in Nicaragua to fabulous, sunny, windy San Francisco Bay, in California. If you've changed your mind or don't wish to get this info, please let me know at "RobbTriton"atsign"gmail"dot"com" or at "TritonCat"atsign"gmail"dot"com"

This is a long email. It contains as much info and insight as I can think of. I'm sure I've left something out, if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

Agenda

First things first: Current plans are that I will arrive at Marina Puesto Del Sol in El Estero de Aserradores, Nicaragua between the 15th and the 17th of October and begin readying the boat for the passage. Since she was in ready condition when I last left her, and have left people looking after her daily, this shouldn't involve too much work - the bulk of which consists of airing her out, scraping her bottom clean, putting the dinghy back in the water and making sure everything still works. You are welcome to arrive there anytime during this period. I expect to leave the Marina on or about the 1st of November, weather permitting.

The trip up is roughly 3000nm done in three separate legs (somewhat less, but lets be conservative). The prevailing winds will be against us at times, so assume at the very best 200nm per day motoring under typical conditions. Most likely we will break this part up into at least three separate legs, stopping in Cabo San Lucas in Mexico after about ten days, then San Diego, then SF, with holders in between for weather, provisioning, recuperation, etc.. This is no easy run down wind, and is considered one of the tougher trips you can make on this half of the globe. If you've been reading the blog and got the impression that we'd spend every day lazing about under sunny skies and fair winds, you might be disappointed.

Going "up hill" (as a northerly route along the West Coast is called) can be pretty difficult. The wind, waves and current are predominantly on the nose, which means either hard sailing to weather, or motoring against it. We will be hiring a weather planner (an expert meteorologist that studies the wind, wave and current patterns and suggests the most favorable route) but most likely we will be motoring hard along a significant amount of the time. We will try to take advantage of any wind or currents we can, so our path might be anywhere between close to shore or sixty miles out.

That puts us in the Cabo around the 10th or 12th, San Diego harbor at between the 25th and the 30th of November, San Francisco sometime early December. We do not make any commitments about being anywhere at that time, nor can we honor any schedule or any plane trips that you can't revise on the spot. (see note below about sailing on a schedule) We will most likely be within this time frame but could be off, there are no guarantees. We might also need to stop in Mag bay or Turtle bay in Mexico for additional supplies and fuel, if need be. Anyone running out of time could jump off (or on) at any of these points as well.

The plane flight down to Nicaragua should cost about $600.00. We just did a price check on Expedia and Sidestep and got similar results. AnnMarie prefers to use Expedia, but use whatever service you believe gets you the best deal. Buying an open ended ticket should figure into this equation. If you would like to meet us somewhere else along the route, we will be happy to try to schedule this in route, and AnnMarie can help coordinate everything, but you'll need to be flexible about when you arrive at some way point and understand that our best intentions around picking you up are always at Mother Nature's whims. In the poker game of life, one hurricane beats a full hotel reservation.

This is not a pleasure cruise. We will not stop until our next way point unless some critical provision like water or fuel runs low, or there is some major mechanical failure or weather condition that necessitates heading for port. In that case we will head towards the safest harbor within sailing distance.

If at any time you decide that the trip has delayed more than your schedule can permit, then whenever we next make land, you will be able to leave the boat and make your own arrangements for flying back home. (see note below about documentation), but be warned that we may not be able to accommodate anyone's schedule. It's an adventure, not a pleasure cruise.



Vessel

The vessel is a 45' cruising catamaran, equipped for blue water sailing. There are lots of photos of her throughout the blog, scan around for various angles of the berths, the salon & galley, the engine compartments, etc. One thing you should understand, this is a very large boat. If you had any concerns about being "squished in" with each other, you are probably thinking about a monohull. Every cabin has its own private bath/shower, and there is plenty of room on the trampolines, decks, cockpit and sugar scoops (the steps leading down to the water at the aft end of the boat) to hang out on. No one has ever reported feeling claustrophobic on this boat.


It has four separate state rooms, each with a queen size bunk and a private bath
and a galley, a salon, galley and navigation station enclosed in the bridge deck which spans the amas (the name for each hull of a catamaran is an "ama") large enough to easily handle eight to ten people comfortably, as well as a protected steering station and cockpit with seating for twelve. The forward section includes a large trampoline for sunbathing, as well as an aft deck and "sugar scoops" (steps leading down to the water from the transom) for easy loading and access. The cabins are spacious with plenty of storage, but due to the design, head room above the bed is less than 36" (see attached photos), but otherwise it is very comfortable, especially if you've ever been on a comparably sized monohull. The large dining table in the salon also folds down into another sleeping area if need be.

The starboard aft (back, right) stateroom is mine, and I will not share that with anyone (owner's/captain's rights), which leave three staterooms for whomever are coming. Most likely everyone will have their own room, if this becomes an issue we'll discuss it later and work something out. Some folks may need to double up if we have more than five or six folks on board - but this hasn't ever been a problem before. If you show up with a spouse, significant other or temporary squeeze, you get first dibs on a stateroom, as long as both of you remain on board, otherwise the rooms are available as first come, first serve. If all three are filled with singles, and someone else comes along, they get doubled up with the last one on board. Couples always get priority on staterooms.

Keep in mind, these are queen size beds, easily shared between non-roommates. If you find yourself having to bunk in with someone you don't know, then rest assured we will set up the watch schedule so that neither of you are sleeping in the bunk at the same time. There is also a large salon table that can convert to a bed if need be, but it is in the center of the bridge deck and lacks privacy or quiet.

In reality, this has never been an issue for anyone before. Try not to be the first.

Rewards and Responsibilities

There is no fee or cost in doing so, you are traveling as our friends, but you are responsible for making your own travel there and back and living arrangements when not on board.

Each member on board is expected to perform some minimum effort towards the boat (see details below), as well as help in transporting the necessary gear from California to wherever the boat is, when needed. We are not responsible for any expense you might acquire while traveling with us, including your medical costs, your insurance, your travel expenses or your cost of living expenses while traveling with us. We do not have insurance that will cover you in the event of an injury or disaster. You must arrange for this coverage yourself. You are not being hired on as paid or professional crew, and nothing should be construed as remuneration or reimbursement. You will not be paid for anything. This is not a "delivery" and we are not sailing to any schedule.

Luggage and Gear

As "crew" you may be expected to bring one or two suitcases (along with your carry own bags) which I will supply.They will already be full of various bits of sailing gear, so don't count on being able to put anything in them. It isn't clear what I'll be able to ship versus what we'll need to bring down by plane, so right now assume you'll each be carrying two of them, that they will meet the airline weight/size guidelines, and that without them we will be missing important supplies. Don't lose them or it could affect the trip.

Additionally, you should be able to carry on a "purse" or "briefcase" or "laptop" and one traditional carry on bag. I've created a list of what I believe are appropriate and necessary personal items needed for this trip, all of which should go in your carry on bag. Consider this as your own shopping list if you don't already have a lot of sailing gear. If you have any questions about any of this please ask me via email, and cc everyone else on the list so we increase the knowledge sharing aspect of it as well.

You should expect that your carry on bag will contain the following items:

All items marked with an asterisk are mandatory - you must have these to go sailing with me!
All items marked with a question mark are optional - they are nice but not absolutely necessary.
All items marked with a plus sign are recommended you wear on the plane, to minimize carry on space issues.

NOTE: Some of this gear is expensive. If you don't already have it, and aren't likely to do a lot of sailing, then ask if we have spares to loan you. Mostly likely we will. Things like PFDs, harnesses, tethers and Foulies can be arranged, but only with sufficient notice. We most likely can cover you, but if this is the only reason stopping you, don't worry about it, we'll figure something out.


Carry On:

* Scopolamine transderm patches,
enough for every day you expect to be at sea, plus one extra three day supply. It is considered a polite gesture to leave any remaining unused patches behind after the trip for other crew that might need them.

* 2 Towels, at least one large enough to use as a beach towel.

*+ 1 Foul Weather Jacket
my suggestion is the West Marine Offshore, which I think is an excellent product.


*+ Foul Weather Bibs pretty much what ever is comfortable, but make sure they are easy to get on over warm fleece.

*+ 1 Deck sneakers appropriate for weather use: Fathom FisherMen Laceups or Sperry Topsiders or the classic rubber deck boots or something equivalent. For cold weather you want to stay dry, for warm weather you will want breathability. If we are sailing in both conditions you may want a pair of each.

*+ 2 pair of polarized, UV blocking sunglasses & croakies (straps). If possible, get 1 with a sunblock nose guard and 1 pair of backup sunglasses, all with their own hard cases. Trust me, glasses get lost, sat on or broken. You'll want at least this many each with their own clasps, and something to protect them.

1 pair of sailing gloves. Okay, this isn't mandatory, and a bit on the religious side. I don't use them, but lots of folks hate handling lines, especially in cold weather without them. I've found that WholeFoods has gardening gloves that work great as well. If you're anticipating temperatures below seventy degrees, you probably want something.

* Type 3 auto inflating PFD / Harness with D Rings. Note: previously, you were not allowed to bring the inflater cartridge on the plane, even in your checked luggage. This has changed recently, as too many folks kept showing up at sailing sites without working PFD's. Apparently, the Coast Guard sued the TSA and forced them to change their ridiculous rules. You might still get hassled about it, and they might try to confiscate the cartridges, but I strongly recommend you pack them anyway, with both the primary cartridge installed and the secondary cartridge in the backup sleeve of the PFD, and put this in your checked luggage. Most times they don't notice or will let it slide anyway. Before you come down (at least two weeks), let me know exactly what type cartridge (make, model, size, etc.) you have so that I can check the local chandlery to see if they stock it should you need to additional cartridges or auto inflater triggers. Mostly likely we won't be able to buy anything in Nicaragua, we'll probably be able to find something once we hit Mexico. Make sure whichever PFD you get has D-Rings already built into the harness (like the one on the right- as opposed to the one on the left) otherwise you will need a separate, additional harness.

* 6' (stretch) tether, preferably with a 3' (static) secondary tether. I would recommend the WestMarine tether, or Witchard Model# 7006. This device is used is used to attach you to the jack lines which are lines that run along the length of the boat, and across the width of the boat at the mast. One end clips to the D-Rings of your harness, and the other end(s) clip into the jack lines. The reason for the second shorter leash is if you need to switch from a bow to stern jackline to one of a line running abeam.

* 1 Personal Strobe light appropriate for your PFD with new battery.

Okay, there are lots and lots of different types of strobes here. The best solution is to get the type that is matched to your PFD, but there are so many possible alternatives that also work that I won't even try to pick a single solution. My suggestion would be one that operates automatically when your PFD inflates, in case you aren't conscious when you fall overboard. If if you are, remembering to do this is not what you want to be concentrating on when you are dealing with a situation like this. Make sure you also have a backup battery as well. Don't skimp on this, your life may depend on it.

1 or 2 swim trunks or jammers or surfer pants. You will most likely wear these every day for the entire trip. Take a look at our pictures and count the number of different outfits we wore over three months. You don't need a lot!

1 or 2 long sleeved (UV protective) cotton or synthetic shirts that cover your shoulders. I can't stress this enough - bring long sleeve, light weight, cotton clothes. You will need protection from the sun, and sun block will not always be the right answer.

*+ 1 lightweight dress shirt. Something nice, that you could wear out to a reasonable restaurant.
*+ 1 lightweight dress pants (or skirt/dress). Same as above. This outfit will be your "show up at the port captain's office outfit".

1 pair comfortable dock/deck shoes: crocks, topsiders, or some "deck friendly" nonabrasive, non marking, nonskid shoe. To be worn with the above.

? 1 pair water socks: aqua socks, skin diving booties, or some such. This turns out to be something quite useful if you are going to go exploring, or swimming with fins that might be too big, or going from dinghy to dock, etc. Something with a non-skid bottom is best, or pair them up with waterproof (plastic) sandals.

*+ 1 pair wool (or synthetic equivalent) socks. Your feet will get cold - this can really improve you attitude if you have to spend time on watch on a breezy night.

? 1 pair thin cotton socks. If you get a blister, or need to walk around town, or just want something between your feet and the wool socks, this will be really nice to have.

*+ 1 very large straw or cloth sun hat with straps or built in flotation. This turns out to be something you really ought to bring two, or even three of. I have a half dozen hats on board, and am always on the lookout for more.

? 1 baseball type cap with brim and clip strap.
? 1 fleece lined cap that fits under foully jacket hood. This is nice for cold weather, or mild weather with high winds. I like it just to protect my ears from the wind.

1 polypro long johns and top. You may not need them, but if you do, you really need them.
1 fleece pullover or jacket. Same as above.
? 1 fleece pants (you won't need them unless it gets cold during a storm, then you'll sell your soul for them).

* 1 headlamp. (preferably with both red and white led options - if you can afford to bring two, do so).
? 2 lightweight sarongs. Okay, this turns out to be the thing most guys don't bring, then end up wishing they had. They are easy to pack, easy to wear, and comfortable as hell. Trust me, you'll love them.

whatever personal hygiene products you require.


Also, limit what ever else you think you absolutely have to bring (especially clothes) to a minimum. Very often folks drag down a lot of stuff that never gets used and is just dragged back home. I doubt you'll feel like reading the first few days, so books, especially big, heavy work related books or paperwork might turn out to be a waste of effort, whereas cameras, videocameras and such tend to be very useful. Make sure whatever electronic equipment you bring has its own (very safe) waterproof containers.

Also, there is a laptop on board. It is absolutely not for your use. If you want to use a laptop for any reason whatsoever, you will need to bring your own. Do not ask to use the ship's laptop. It is strictly for navigation and communication purposes only. Don't even think about touching it without the captain's direct permission and oversight. This is not a matter to treat lightly or dismiss. Our lives depend upon certain important pieces of equipment, such at the engines, compass, depth sounder, radios, chart plotters, and other various electronic components. The ships computer is very much a part of this system, regardless of how much it looks just like your laptop at home. Ignoring this order is tantamount to mutiny. You will be asked to leave the ship if you violate this boundary. This is not a joke.

On the lighter side...we do have a bunch of masks, snorkels and flippers, you probably don't need anything for skin diving, unless you require a prescription mask or definitely want to have the right size flippers. I would recommend you get a nylon "dive skin", just something that covers your body completely when you are swimming, in case you bump into the occasional jelly fish.

NOTE: if you have prescription lens, bring an appropriate dive mask for them, or get those lens that glue into a regular mask. If you have unusually large or small feet, bring your own flippers.


Travel Arrangements

You will need to fly into Managua, Nicaragau, and then take a bus or taxi (a two hour trip) to Puesto Del Sol. Check with us as you may be able to share a ride with others going down there.

Nicaragua is a Spanish speaking country, so bring your translation book. Managua is a pretty dirty, grimy city, without much to offer. Crime is pretty high, and spending time there isn't worth the effort. Puesto Del Sol is an island of luxury inside the jungle, but everything else around there is very, very poor.

The boat is currently on a mooring at Puesto Del Sol. Tell them you are here to meet Robb Kane on "Triton".

Marina Puesta del Sol Resort - Aserradores

Attention: Maria Laura Cano
Marina Puesta del Sol
Aserradores, El Viejo, Chinandega,Nicaragua
Pacific Coast of Nicaragua 9 kilometers north of Corinto

Entrance Buoy Coordinates:
Lat. 12° 36.55’ North and Long. 087°22.41’ West

Tel: (011 from U.S.) 505-883-0781, 505-880-0019, 505-880-0013

email: mpuestadelsol@yahoo.com

VHF Channel 16

Marina Puesta del Sol – U.S.A.

Marina Puesta del Sol Inc.
2072-B Walsh Avenue
Santa Clara, CA 95050
Attention: Marc Membreño

Telephone: 408-588-0017 Fax: 408-588-1550
email:
info@marinaps.com



Documentation

We live in a free country. You can move about without asking any one's opinion or permission. All that is about to change. In order to go sailing you will need a passport, a health certificate, a driver's license or photo id, at lease one valid credit card and/or cash enough to get you back home.

If you don't have a passport, get on it NOW. They can take months to obtain. You need a passport that is valid for at least six more months. Trust me that you do not want to have to replace one overseas. Nothing will suck more than flying to another country, missing the boat ride, and spending the next few weeks trying to get a new one before you can get back in the country.

The health certificate (also sometimes called your "yellow" card because it is traditionally printed on hard stock, yellow paper) is something you obtain from your doctor. It includes certifications of each of the various inoculations you've had since childhood (measles, pox, etc.) as well as any other booster shots (tetanus, hep A/B, etc.). BTW, if you haven't had one lately, get another tetanus shot. They are good for five years. Also, ask you doctor about getting vaccinated against Hepatitis A & B. The entire process takes about six months, but it is worth doing on general principles and lasts for decades.

You probably won't need a yellow card for this trip, we aren't going to be stopping anywhere that might require it, but you should probably start creating one, and update your boosters for tenus, HEP A/B, whatever, anyway.

NOTE: When you come aboard, you will surrender your passport to me. By law I'm responsible (as captain of the vessel) for having it in my possession. If you decide to leave the ship ahead of time, we must both go to the Harbor Master or Port Captain and change the boat's visa documentation. You will need to provide proof of transport (usually a plane ticket) before you name can be removed from the boat manifest. This is no small matter. Ships can be prevented from leaving the country unless everyone is accounted for or on board. Entering another country without everyone on the manifest can result in fines, impounding the vessel or detainment. This isn't something I wish to treat lightly, please understand that the consequences of not doing everything according to the letter of the law can be serious. Your cooperation is mandatory on this issue.


Safety Equipment

As to other safety equipment on board, besides the standard equipment one would expect to find such as flares, dye, smoke, flotation, life vests, etc., the boat will be equipped with a 406MHz EPIRB, several VHF radios as well as a HAM & SSB radio, several hand held GPS, at least two chart plotters, Radar, Sonar, Sea Anchor, Drogues and each crew member will have a MOB wristwatch which can automatically engage on immersion. There is also a matching Radio Beacon Direction Finding device for tracking anyone who does go overboard wearing one of these watches.

YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO WEAR A MOB (man over board) WATCH WHENEVER YOU ARE OUTSIDE THE SALON FROM DUSK TO DAWN, OR IN INCLEMENT WEATHER, OR AT THE CAPTAIN'S DISCRETION. YOU WILL NOT COMPLAIN ABOUT IT. YOU WILL NOT CLAIM IT DOESN'T WORK. YOU WILL NOT STUFF IT BENEATH YOUR MATTRESS THEN CLAIM YOU CAN'T FIND IT. YOU WILL NOT BITCH ABOUT IT. YOU WILL NOT BE PASSIVE/AGGRESSIVE ABOUT IT EITHER.

There is also a Radio Direction Finder (RDF) that constantly monitors for any emergency beacon signal on this frequency, and can be used to pinpoint locate the source. So, if you fall overboard, we can find you, even at night, even in a storm - providing you are wearing your watch, and we've all practiced using this device. Expect to conduct at least one practice session before setting sail, which means spending at least four hours not having fun, but potentially saving your life should you fall overboard in a storm.

We also have the standard medical bag, which will cover the basics emergencies such as lacerations, burns and the like. If you have any special needs (allergic reactions, daily meds, etc.) or if you desire to bring any additional safety equipment please let me know now so that we can include this in our preparations.


Communications

The boat is equipped with a standard VHF radio for ship to ship and ship to shore (within twenty miles) communication. It also has (barring technical difficulties) a HAM radio for long distance communication, an operational Single Side Band (SSB) radio capable of making overseas calls, sending email and retrieving weather faxes, as well as an emergency Iridium satellite phone capable of reaching almost anywhere in the world under almost any weather condition. Using the SSB ship to shore phone is somewhat pricey, lacks privacy and requires good atmospheric conditions. If you need to make a call, we can try to put it through, but it may not always be possible.

SSB Email is less problematic, tends to be more reliable, but is slow. It can take significantly longer to send and retrieve emails, but it is relatively inexpensive to do so. Do not rely on this as a means of communication, but if it is necessary to send an occasional post, we should have the ability to do so while at sea.

The satellite phone is a measure of last resort. It is easy, convenient and reliable, but very, very expensive. If it is an emergency then this is what we will most likely use if the SSB operation isn't successful. Please understand that these are not free services and we expect that you will reimburse us for any costs we incur in delivering your messages. If you believe you absolutely need to make phone calls, then we suggest you purchase a digital prepaid card for the phone. These can be obtained at chandler's such as West Marine, or through various electronic device dealerships, for amounts between $75 and $150 that will purchase prepaid calling time.


Sea Sickness

First off, everyone gets sea sick eventually. Some have it frequently, others rarely, no one is immune. Mark Twain, during his time aboard ships, discovered an amazing cure for sea sickness, with an effectiveness approaching 100%. He found that placing the patient's head directly at the base of a California Oak tree not less than fifty feet high, with the patient's feet extending horizontally outward and due north, relieved symptoms almost immediately. Alas, we do not have room on board for such a tree and are limited to other, more pedestrian cures.

First off, don't worry about it too much, as it affects almost everyone for the first day or two of a passage, and then subsides naturally. For me, I'm normally very queasy the first two days at sea. If I can stay warm, dry, well hydrated and get plenty of sleep, it goes away and from then on in I'm fine. As a crew member I almost always take anti-nausea meds for the first few days - usually Sturgeron (it isn't available in the states, but is an over the counter drug almost everywhere else) usually starting about twelve hours before we set sail. If sea sickness symptoms progress to vomiting I'll switch to the transderm patch, which works whether I'm yowling or not. It tends to knock you out for a few hours, but after that you're usually great and can function both above and below decks.

I'll have plenty of Sturgeron on hand, but I insist that everyone bring their own Scopolamine patches. They aren't cheap, and they require a doctor's script, so get this done soon (now) and don't worry about it. Dashing around at the last minute for this is a huge hassle.

NOTE: You want to put on the patch AT LEAST twelve hours before sailing. Waiting until you start to feel bad means you'll be sick for twelve hours until the meds have a chance to kick in. You've been warned.

Also, OTC items like Dramamine and Bomine, in my unlimited yet anecdotal experience, don't work. Use them if you must, but don't come aboard without a few days worth of transderm patches as well or you'll be sent home. No joke.

NOTE: I usually don't take medication when I'm the captain, because I don't want anything to affect my judgment or tire me out. If I get really slammed, then I'll use a transderm patch. Don't compare yourself to my habits or anyone else's. If you're at all worried, wear a patch. They work amazingly well.

NOTE: There are lots of things that contribute to sea sickness. Staying away from alcohol, drugs, greasy foods, dank air and enclosed areas helps tremendously. Getting lots of rest, plenty of fluid, vitamin C & B complex, staying above decks, looking out at the horizon and manning the helm all seem to help as well. There are also some claims that ginger helps: we will have various foodstuffs of this on board in the form of raw ginger, candied ginger, ginger beer, and chocolate covered crystallized ginger.

Bring whatever other magic potions or remedies you believe will work for you. Also, sea sickness has a very real psychological component. If you firmly believe something will work, it may just. If you stress or worry about it, you will probably make it worse.


Safety At Sea

Okay, here is the part where reality sets in. This is a dangerous undertaking. Why? Well, the ocean doesn't care about you and will kill you the first chance you give it. Worse still, I, as captain, am morally, if not legally, responsible for your life. To that end, I will not take any chance with your safety, or the other crew members, myself or my vessel. This means that we will always err on the conservative side of things.

In the past, hardy sailing folks didn't use lifelines, netting, harnesses, PFDs, tethers, or any other form of safety device. And they usually got away with it, until they died. This mindset remains prevalent in many sailing communities today, much the way that seat belts or air bags or electronically controlled brakes are still poopoohed by some ignorant drivers.

As you read this, the current thinking about being "tied in" is changing in light of the recent and numerous MOBs (Man Over Board), accidents and drownings that have occurred. Several folks have been caught unawares and washed overboard by rogue waves, even during perfectly good weather! These days, most prudent sailors are realizing that even in the best of conditions, it is best to be tied to the boat. The "old salts" among us may claim that this is overly precautious (this was my attitude as recently as last year) but since I can't afford to risk your life (even if you are willing to) I've revised my rules governing operations above decks. That said, a few explanations about procedures:

1) Anyone outside of the boat, even in the cockpit, during non-daylight hours or in anything but absolutely flat weather, regardless of how little time is intended to be spent or the trivialness of the errand, MUST wear a PFD and harness at all times.
2) The boat will be equipped with jack lines. These are heavy lines that run fore and aft along the inside of the decks, as well as two that run athwart ships just forward and aft of the cockpit, and a crossing line at the mast. Whenever you are standing outside the cockpit coamings, for any reason, at any time, you MUST be connected to these jack lines with a tether and harness.
3) During even the slightest of inclement weather or from any time before dusk until after sunrise, you must attach yourself to a jack line even within the cockpit. Even if you don't intend to go out on deck. No exceptions.
4) No one is to exit the cockpit (cross the coamings) or stand on the aft deck or sugar scoops, for any reason, without someone else in the cockpit and tied in.

Safety Drills

Sorry guys, but I'm just not a "Safety Third" kind of guy, no matter how sexy that is at Burning Man. In fact, I'm well beyond anal retentive (perhaps even epiglottis retentive) about this kind of stuff, so expect to practice what to do in emergencies, and talk a lot about how we will handle certain conditions. Odds are very, very good that everything we discuss or practice will never happen. If it does, then you will know what to do and have done it in simulation at least once.

We will practice MOB drills, including the use of the safety sling and the radio beacon direction finder. We will also practice setting and retrieving the sea parachute and the drogues. Every crew member will also know how to raise and lower the sails, as well as how to operate the anchor windlass, engines, and sail lines. We will practice all of these skills for a full day, including tacks and jibes (sailing maneuvers) before we depart.

I would also like to get the crew together before we leave for a practice round with the MOB RFD. If someone goes overboard at night, this is going to be the single best device for finding them. Understanding how to use it before we need to is paramount!


Insurance

Believe it or not, there is very cheap insurance available through DAN (Diver's Alert Network) that covers you for any accident involving scuba diving, or while on your way to or from the dive site, or if you happen to be injured while doing so. I believe there is also a provision about "vacation insurance" there as well. Since we ultimately want to go diving at some point in this trip, it probably makes sense for you to look into this.

If nothing else, I recommend you speak with your insurance broker or travel agent about obtaining some form of "catastrophic" insurance that would cover you for things like emergency room visits, helicopter rides, ambulance, etc. while in a foreign country. For the amount of money you'll spend, it is well worth the investment.


Sailing Schedules

Sailing is an odd sort of endeavor. On the whole, it is a relatively safe way of traveling, providing one is willing to pay attention to the weather, the condition of the vessel and the ability of the crew. On the other hand, it is one of the most dangerous things you can do if you are willing to disregard climate, ship and shipmates. If you ask around, you'll find that the conventional wisdom regarding passage making is "NEVER, EVER SAIL ON A SCHEDULE!"

This means that if there isn't a perfect weather window, and/or there is anything wrong with the boat, and/or there is some problem that could compromise the abilities of the crew, then we don't sail. Even if this means not getting where you need to be by some specific time. Even if it means you might miss your flight. Even if you can't refund your tickets.

To this end, I must warn you that I will not accept any pressure to leave before everything is reasonably ship shape, the crew is rested, and the weather looks favorable. Now, no one can predict weather perfectly, but modern equipment and expertise is pretty good about alerting you to rough conditions, especially severe gales, storms and hurricanes. We will not sail in these if at all possible, and will delay or detour as far as is necessary to avoid them, regardless of what this does to your plans.

If you have any questions about why I'm so adamant about this particular issue, I suggest you research the last ten sailing disasters that have occurred recently. Count how many of them were (either directly or indirectly) because the crew decided they needed to make a schedule. I believe you'll find that more than half of all sailing accidents include this as a causal factor. By simply following this simple, safe and obvious guideline, we can reduce the chances of having a problem out at sea tremendously.

So, in case this isn't clear, I'll repeat it. We do not sail on anyone's schedule.


Taking Orders, otherwise know as The Captain is an Asshole (or what happens when things go wrong)

Yep, you heard it here first, the captain is an asshole. Partly it's because he grew up in New Jersey, in a bad family, but mostly because its his job is to make sure that everything is done right, that the crew is safe and the boat doesn't sink. In other words, to be as much of a pain in the ass as is necessary to make sure everything is okay - but no more than that!

Look, lets be honest. No one wants to be bossed around. And, truth be told, I don't want to be anything but kind and encouraging, and certainly not your mother. Besides, you guys are my friends, and I want to keep it that way. But I also need you to understand that I expect everyone to cooperate when the situation demands.

Now, if the captain were a perfect captain, he would be able to communicate exactly what he needs, in a way that makes you feel great about yourself, and makes you want to do the best job possible. Sadly, this captain is far from perfect. In fact, he is a jerk, he is stupid, he is grumpy, he is mean, there is almost no end to his incompetence, he is ugly, fat and he dresses funny. Did I mention bad breath and no singing voice as well?

That said, this captain would like to be a great captain and a really nice guy all the time. And he is going to try to communicate exactly what he needs in a way that makes you feel great about yourself. But that doesn't mean he won't fail miserably in the process. Should this happen during an emergency, the correct response is to deal with the task at hand and then after the crisis is over, calmly discuss how it could have been handled better. During the emergency try to remember that it is really fucking difficult to remain polite and sensitive when the first mate has just fallen overboard or the cook is bleeding. There may be some shouting involved - don't take it personally.

Also, try to remember, at that point, when the captain "asks" you to do something, he isn't really "asking", he is in fact "telling". There are really only a few correct responses to this: One is "AyeAye" or "Roger", which sounds goofy but is actually appropriate. Another is "I don't understand what you want me to do, please explain it better". And there are always the "I'm afraid to do that", "I'm not physically capable of doing that" or "I think its too dangerous, how about we do this instead?" These are all valid responses. Bitching, griping or complaining are not, nor is yelling "I'M TRYING AS HARD AS I CAN GOD DAMN IT!", even if you are really tired and stressed. It doesn't help at all and only adds more stress to the situation. If you are having a hard time with something let him know as soon as you do, not when things have hit the fan. If you are being asked to do something beyond your limits, say so right away. If you aren't absolutely certain how to do something, get more clarification. For most things, a simple acknowledgment should be enough.

NOTE: It is very unlikely that we will ever be in an emergency. The above info certainly does apply then, but it also applies to those situations when you are tired, cold, stressed or uncertain. Understand that there is someone whose job it is to make sure you are safe, and treated well, but in that order.


The Captain Is Not Always Right...

But He Is Ultimately Responsible. Having said the tripe above about following orders, I need to really stress that I'm not God, nor in any way above anyone else. In fact, it is an odds on bet that someone else in the crew will have a better idea about how to solve a problem, or handle a situation, than I will. To that end I will always try to include everyone on all decisions, and to reach a consensus. For each situation we will allot a reasonable amount of time to discuss it (situation permitting) and then try to come to a reasonable solution. If we can't, for whatever reason, then I will decide. That decision is always going to be mine to make.

By the way, a lot of research has been conducted about Airline crashes, and the conclusion reached was that many times the major cause was because other members of the crew felt intimidated to disagree with the captain. If we are going to do this right, then everyone, regardless of their experience, has to know that they have the right to participate in the process. What you think matters, but only if you say it. So, you must raise your concerns, and make sure everyone understands your issues. We will discuss things as best we can, and time allows, then the captain will make a decision. Once we've decided on a direction then all discussion should stop, unless some new information comes along that changes the situation.

This is always a delicate balance. Everyone needs to feel like they can disagree, be respected and respectful while doing so, but ultimately all pull in the same direction. If you see me (or anyone else) bullying the conversation, point this out. The goal is safety, not ego, so don't hesitate to mention what might not be obvious to the perpetrator, but is potentially dangerous for everyone. Speak up!!

NOTE: There is a famous sailing story from the 1600's. Back then it was illegal for anyone but the navigator & captain to chart their course while in route. This had to do with maintaining discipline on ship (where mutinous crews were common) but also to prevent spies from gleaming coastal navigation information - a big deal back before the advent of modern charts, precise compasses, sextants and clocks. In fact, it was such a big deal that the penalty for doing so was death. Well, a lowly seaman was doing just that, and his computations led him to believe that the ship was heading for a deadly reef, instead of the safe harbor they thought they were headed towards. He brought his findings to the captain, who ignored what he said, ordered him executed and then promptly ran his boat onto the reef, sinking it and killing most of the rest of the crew. Moral of the story: If you think something ain't right, say so, loudly, to everyone, especially the captain.

P.S. Everyone and anyone is encouraged to also keep a navigation log and practice their navigation skills. The more folks doing this the better, and we can all teach each other as we go. Its fun and something everyone can and should learn. I promise not to execute anyone for doing so.


Why Can't We All Just Get Along?

Well, why can't we? Sometimes, there is someone on board who just rubs everyone the wrong way. If you find someone is annoying you, try talking to them about it, or talk to the captain. Don't let it escalate or turn ugly. Almost everything can be resolved.

Sometimes, it can't. Sometimes there is someone that everyone else finds intolerable. I've seen it happen, but it is very, very rare. It isn't always because that person is bad, or a jerk, it might just be the way they interact with the group. Sometimes, especially during stressful events like offshore sailing, people behave oddly. The best way to deal with this situation is to recognize it is happening and bring it to the attention of the captain. Maybe the solution is as simple as changing the watch schedule, or task assignments, or cabins. Maybe its asking them to leave. Either way, there has to be harmony on board.

If it turns out that you find that you are on bad terms with everyone, talk to the captain right away and figure out what is going on. Either way, don't let minor issues turn into major battles.

NOTE: The above statements should be unnecessary, but if I don't include them, I'm not being complete. I really don't anticipate any problems with anyone.


Crew Watches

Currently, there are four people besides myself on board. This means that everyone does a six hours out of every twenty four. Now there are lots of ways of handling this. A popular one is three on, nine off. Another is to divide the crew into two shifts, each of twelve hours. The two member get to choose their own schedule within that period. Another approach is to have fixed times that alternate. We can discuss what works best when we are getting ready to sail. I don't have a preference myself, but it also isn't something we can't change or experiment with as well. Let's see what works for us.

I won't be standing shifts as I will be available pretty much continuously, and can sub in for anyone who gets ill or needs a break. If you are not absolutely comfortable with your duties, or something comes up, or you are worried about something, then talk to me, or wake me up.


Boat Work

Every boat needs constant attention, and this one is no different. While on board, we ask that you spend (at most) one hour a day (in addition to your watch duties) doing some form of maintenance, weather providing. Generally this means polishing a small bit of railing, or scrubbing the coamings, or checking the life lines, or checking for leaks, or some other light duty work. It isn't a big deal, but if everyone does a small amount each day it makes a huge difference.


Food On Board

AnnMarie won't be along this trip, so we will need to fend for ourselves. Usually we elect one person to cook, crew size permitting. Also, please be aware that I have an allergy to gluten (the protein in wheat, barley, rye and oats) so it would be greatly appreciated if you could be aware of what foods are mixing with what I eat, as that might "poison" me. For instance, bread crumbs that happen to spill into the salad will ruin my day. Please treat all this with care, as an unhappy crew mate is not fun.

All cooking (open flame) is to be observed directly at all times. Do not walk away from the cooking stove for any reason, unless you first shut it off. Fires on board are very deadly. Everyone is required to exercise the greatest vigilance. Also, when operating the propane gas stove, you must shut the electronic fuel switch off before turning off the gas values, to prevent gas from building up in the lines and potentially spilling into the bilge.

We are going to try to make as much food in advance as possible, so that we can minimize the amount of cooking and food prep needed while in route. Items like cereal, oatmeal, sandwiches, noodle cups, etc. tend to be pretty popular for this. Don't scrimp on treats, especially items that will easily fit in a pocket during watches, like candy bars, chocolate, cookies, brownies, etc. They provide quick bursts of energy (high fat & sugar) and if handled properly can help keep sea sickness away. Plus it is always nice to have a treat - you deserve it.


Clothing

Providing we are at sea, or in some relatively secluded area, clothing is optional on board or overboard, but it is strongly advised that you respect the customs and morays of whatever country we happen to be in. When going into town, expect to dress conservatively. If we are going to the Harbor Master or Port Captain's offices, we will all be dressed in our best formal clothes, be washed and sober.

Weather permitting, we will drop sail and swim about every so often. This really helps keep you cool. We will also have fresh showers, but we need to ration that water so limit your showering to no more than 1 minute per shower, and no more than four showers a day. Water will be the single most precious commodity on board.

Toilets

Okay, down to the nitty-gritty. There are four toilets on the boat, one in each stateroom. You are responsible for your toilet. If you stop it up, you will have to un-stop it. I can assure you it is probably the least fun thing you will do this decade. Especially if it happens while we are at sea. I will not have much sympathy either. In fact, I will kind of smirk a bit, and stand in the doorway offering encouraging comments while you work on it. So don't fuck up your toilet!

How not to fuck up your toilet:
  1. Do not put anything into the toilet that doesn't come out of your body. This is limited to shit, piss, spit and vomit. You will notice that it doesn't include toilet paper, wet wipes, condoms, tampons, tissues, Q-tips, string, drugs, food, clothes, towels or small kittens.
  2. Put all used toilet paper overboard, or in a garbage can. I know that sounds disgusting to someone who might have never been anywhere outside the US, but this is the standard way of doing things anywhere else in the Americas.
  3. Flush thoroughly, at least thirty to fifty strokes of the pump handle.
  4. Use appropriate lubricants from time to time - more on that later.
How to use a marine toilet: Okay, this info applies to about 86% of all toilets you will encounter on boats, so after you learn this bit you will be a pro. The other 14% use a vacuum system or some other complicated mechanism, and they can tell you what to do with their toilets. On my boat, follow this routine:
  1. First, wash your hands. Believe it or not, your genitalia are probably not dirty (that's just something the prigs who started this country came over here believing), but your hands definitely are. Working on a boat will have brought your hands into contact with any number of awful things, including diesel fuel, motor oil, sea spray, dead fish and the captain, just to name a few. Touching yourself with those dirty hands is a bad idea.
  2. Now, look at the toilet. Just to the side of the bowl you should see a pump handle. Pumping this handle forces the waste contents out of the bowl and into either the holding tank or the ocean, depending on how some values are arranged, and also forces sea water into the bowl, depending on the position of a switch located just above the pump handle (see the picture above). Notice the position of the switch!
  3. Next pump the handle on the toilet a few times. Does water enter the bowl at the rim? If not, change the position of the switch, then pump some more. Water should swirl out of the rim of the bowl and into it. At the same time, any waste or sea water in the bowl should be pumped out of it.
  4. By pumping the handle with the switch in this "flush" position, you will fill the bowl with about one inch of sea water, and wet down the sides of the bowl in doing so. Getting the bowl wet means it will be less likely that anything will stick to it when you use the "captain's head". Don't make jokes, we've heard them already.
  5. Put down the toilet seat, sit down on the toilet seat and relieve yourself - even if you are male and need to pee. Do not stand up to pee, unless you are female. Any women willing to pee standing up has my utmost respect and is entitled to do whatever she wants. She is also likely to clean up if she misses. Men are not capable of peeing while standing up on a boat. Men believe they can, and when they piss all over the toilet, walls, floors, hose pipes and their feet, will ignore this fact because it interferes with their self esteem. Two days later it will stink to high heaven because some male ego is unable to admit they have non-laminar flow, lousy aim and are unwilling to deal with the consequences of it. So, dick holder, sit the fuck down, and do your business.
  6. Wipe your ass, if necessary, and dispose of the used tissue by either throwing it out the window (if we are out to sea) or by placing it in a garbage bag under the sink.
  7. The sink next to you has a removable faucet that can be used as a bidet. Even if we are rationing water, don't hesitate to use water for this purpose, unless we specifically say otherwise. This turned out to be a real delight for the women aboard - we've had several compliments about it. Makes you wonder about American plumbing, but we digress.
  8. Stand up, turn around and flush the head. To do so, pump the handle numerous times (between thirty and fifty) to flush out the waste and any additional sea water that is being flushed in. Stop only after the bowl has been completely rinsed, and you are sure the waste lines (all six to eight feet of them) have been completely flushed as well.
  9. Flip the switch to "dry" and pump the handle some more. In this position, the pump will continue to empty the bowl, but the toilet bowl rim will not flush new sea water. After five or ten pumps the bowl should be dry. Leave the toilet with the switch in this position.
  10. Wash your hands, and rinse down anywhere that needs it with the fresh water from the sink. Do not leave your head unclean, or a mighty angel will swoop down upon you and visit you with evil smells in the night.
NOTE: if pumping the handle makes a squeaking sound, or it is difficult to pump, try putting some "head lube" (I couldn't even make this up if I wanted to) in the bowl, and/or spraying some lubricant on the pump handle. Ask the captain for help if you aren't sure about this.

NOTE: if you break the head, you will be very, very unhappy. I strongly encourage you, that before you create a diaster, to make sure you know exactly what you are doing, and ask for help, and do not try to fix things yourself unless you are damn sure you know what you are doing. I've seen piss, shit, vomit and any other number of bodily fluids before. You will not embarrass me if you ask for help. I assure you it will be very embarrassing if you have to repair a toilet while at sea.

Toilets are easy to use, but hard to fix. If the above instructions are confusing, don't sweat it, ask for help. Also, there are several valves that must be in the correct position to use the toilet. There is a sea water intake value, and a a waste exhaust value, both located in the area underneath the sink. Both these values should be in the "open" position (i.e. the valve handle in line with the hosepipe) for the system to work properly. There is also a waste direction value that directs the waste either to the sea or a holding tank, depending on the position of a value located deep in the back of the sink area. Normally these three valves will all be set up by myself, but you should be aware of their significance and understand how to open/close them properly.


Contraband, Drugs or Firearms On Board

Unless you can (and will) provide a doctors prescription for what you are taking, drugs (or any other contraband such as explosives or firearms) haves very serious consequences. Should the authorities find them on board, the owner (me, whether I knew about them or not) can go to jail, the boat can be impounded (never to be see again) and the loser who caused the problem will regret it for the rest of their short life. I will personally see to it that anyone bringing contraband aboard my vessel is convinced that they have made a serious mistake and begs for death - but I'm not bitter. Now, I'm sure some of you might think this is being a bit drastic, but sadly, the last trip I took involved someone showing up with some recreational material - they were very disappointed by my reaction. Aside from being unfuckingbelievably stupid (subjecting your host to imprisonment and loss of their home) it is also rude and impolite. I suggest you lookup Lazzareth Long's attitudes about this kind of behavior. Mine are more so.


Alcohol

Although I do enjoy the occasional drink, we are basically tee totalers and neither AnnMarie nor I will have any alcohol on board for ourselves. This means that anything alcoholic you wish to drink will your own responsibility. Bring whatever you like, and any mixers you might need as well. Use your own pineapple juice if you want to make a pina-colada, and keep it clearly labeled so there isn't any confusion. If you run out, don't assume we will want to donate to the cause.

You are an adult, and are welcome to drink as much as you desire, providing it doesn't compromise your abilities to safely stand watch. This means you start your watch sober. Other than that, have at.


Smoking

There is no smoking aboard. This isn't because I'm against it (I enjoy smoking cigarettes occasionally) but because of all the smells that permeate a boat (and contribute to sea sickness) cigarette smoke is probably the single most repugnant smell possible. To my knowledge, no one on this trip smokes (at least regularly) so this should be a non-issue. If you have addition issues here, then plan on bringing some nicotine gum or patches. Under perfect conditions, smoking may be possible if sitting on the sugar scope while we head towards windward and willing to provide everyone else on board with one as well. You must still ask permission first, and it isn't likely to be granted. Sorry, but I have to live on this boat long after you leave.


Good Times, Good Times...

Well, I've saved the best for last. At least, after reading through all this, I hope that all this talk of emergency procedures and restrictions on what you can or can't do didn't scare you off, and that you believe there might still be the possibility of having a good time. The reality of sailing long distances is that long periods of time are spend just chilling, listening to music, watching the dolphins play in the bow wake or sunbathing on the trampoline. There are few things more relaxing or enjoyable, especially when it isn't your boat!

So, please, take everything I've said with a grain of salt. This is a really special opportunity for all of us. I'd like it to be safe, but also fun, relaxing and enjoyable. I very much appreciate your coming along, and look forward to spending time with you on the ocean.


Post Script

If there was any part of this email that was confusing, poorly written, off putting or technically incorrect, please point it out to me. This document will eventually become the template for future sailing invites, so any input you can provide would be much appreciated.


Talk to you all soon.

Cheers,

Robb


--If you want to hear God laugh, tell him your plans.



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Monday, July 23, 2007

Arriving at Puesto Del Sol, Nicaragua


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Well, we made it so far!! Safe and sound in Marina Puesta Del Sol and not a single crew member lost overboard, captured by pirates or tempted away by the song of the sirens, although Jeff did disappear for several weeks in Cartagena, but he came back eventually, only to leave us once we'd made it through the Panama Canal and up to Golfito. It was still a great adventure and we mostly had fun, and when we didn't, it made for great stories later on.

This leg has been relatively easy, compared to the previous ones. Of course, that doesn't really include the fact that I had to fight off several mutinies, a Nicaraguan Gun Boat, and the combined forces of the Costa Rican Customs and Immigration Services, but that was nothing compared to the long days at sea, the hardships of a high fat/strong rum diet and the complete lack of any really decent cigarettes anywhere in the tropics.

For the most part the trip along the coast was uneventful, although both Jacob and Roxanne weren't feeling that well. We mostly motored, catching a little wind on our beam for a bit as we neared a harbor entrance just south of the marina. Anchored about a mile or so West of the harbor entrance was one of the U.S. Mercy Ships. If you've never seen one before, its a massive Panamax ships that has been converted into a giant floating hospital, with several hundred beds, many operating theaters and a significant amount of support services for things like eye care, dentistry, medical checkups, etc.. Its still part of our tax dollars, and run by the good folks of the US Military (smile when you say that, boy) and travels around the world providing medical care for the citizens of poor or impoverished countries who couldn't otherwise get access to decent doctors. It is really quite an impressive boat, with helicopter pads, yacht launches, marine escorts and such.

We didn't pay it much attention to it as we cruised, it was anchored far outside of the harbor entrance, at least a mile off shore, and our vessel was maybe only a hundred yards from the coast line as we motored along past it. Our course would bring us in between the harbor entrance and the ship, but we were no where near it and didn't think much about it until a Nicaraguan Coast Guard Gunboat came racing up along our port side. There were six very, very, very young crew members, one of which was manning a very large cannon at the front of the boat. The others were all holding automatic weapons of one flavor or another, and all of them were looking directly at us and gesturing. Now, I've been in a few odd situations before, and have had various loaded weapons pointed at me, but nothing quite compares with sight of looking down the barrel a large bore cannon. You suddenly become very attentive. They pulled up along our port side and began hailing us in Spanish on the VHF radio. I immediately cut the engines and yelled to Robinson, asking him to get on the radio and see if he could figure out what they wanted and what we should do next. As we drifted to a halt they positioned themselves just a few feet away and a bit behind us, with their weapons ready. It was clear that they were not at all happy.

Here is a bit of nautical advice that I've picked up along the way, and will pass along to all you folks for free: If the crew of a well armed gunboat are not happy, and they are very close by, then no one else near them will be happy. This is actually one of the few nautical sayings that turns out to be true in all cases. There was this very tense moment while Robinson tried to figure out what they were saying as they came along side us. Suddenly they stopped communicating on the radio. None of us knew what to do, but that didn't seem like a good thing.

About that time we noticed that the Mercy Ship had dispatched a large, high speed inflatable with two U.S. marines on board. They were headed directly for the Nicaraguan gunboat and pulled up along side them, leaving us on the far side. As they got closer to us we realized that the Nicaraguans stance completely changed. They lowered the weapons, turned their backs on us and walked over to the other side of their boat to talk to the marines. Whatever threat we might have been, we were longer any concern of theirs. It was then that I remembered to breath again.

The Nicaraguan Coasties conferred with the marines, and with much smiling and waving they motored off. Then the marines came up along side us. I asked them if they wanted to board us, but they just shook their heads and said that we were too close to their ship and to stay further away. It wasn't clear just exactly how far off we needed to be, since the shore was about 100 yards to our right, but since we needed to head north, and they were due west, we just smiled and thanked them for the heads up, then continued on our way. Apparently the U.S. military is getting very touchy about keeping a secure perimeter around their assets, and the Nicaraguan Coast Guard was an active part of that effort as well. No harm, no foul, but it was the first time in my entire life I was ever glad to see an American military vessel coming at me at high speed.

Not long after that we rounded the shallow point just South of Marine Puesta Del Sol. We could see a giant triangular palapa from miles off shore, jutting out from behind the tree line, so we knew we were close, but the harbor entrance wasn't obvious. Their website gives pretty detailed instructions for entering the channel, but it doesn't mention the fact that the channel entrance isn't visible from the South until you are almost completely past it, and that there is a reef extending out quite a ways and you need to go pretty far off to the West before rounding the corner and heading in. As we motored up we noticed the depth gauge warning us of a shallow bottom, and we could see some very large breakers almost dead ahead. We changed course a bit, headed out into deeper water and after going much further than we thought we needed to, spotted the marker leading into the harbor. We made a sharp right towards the channels and heading in.

Since it was getting on towards quiting time, we tried raising the marina on the VHF, and managed to get a few brief comments through, but they were having radio problems. Apparently their power goes out regularly and their VHF radio wasn't charged enough to broadcast. We would hear the first few words, then a blaring sound. We at least got enough information threw to let them know that we'd be arriving momentarily. The channel is quite well marked, surrounded on each side with lush vegetation, but snakes around a bit, and unless you stay directly inside it, you can easily end up aground. After a few minutes we pulled up to the marina docks and set foot in Nicaraguan soil.

The marina itself is brand new, with room for about fifty boats, plus a gas dock, swimming pool, restaurant, and a very classy hotel. It is surrounded by jungle on three sides, and ocean on the fourth. Not ten seconds after we pulled up a few of the resident cruisers came up to greet us and offered to show us around. Not long after that the harbor manager arrived and got us situated, plugged into shore power and water, and pointed at the restuarant. Everyone was warm, gracious and very helpful, what a change from some of our previous marinas. Within minutes we were all sitting on a beautiful deck overlooking the harbor and sipping drinks with umbrellas in them. Life was good, and everyone was happy to be here. We ordered dinner, but Roxanne still wasn't feeling well, and Jacob became very sick. That night he seemed to be better, but Rox was getting worse, vomitting most of the night. By morning she looked terrible, was clearly dehydrated and miserable. Her concern was that their flight was leaving in a day, and they were worried that they might be too sick to make it. It didn't take much to convince her that she go into the local town and see a medic. We packed her and Jacob up into a cab and they went off, returning several hours later. The nurse pumped her up with saline, gave her some antibiotics and sent her home. When she returned she looked one hundred percent better and was clearly on the mend. We longed around the pool for a bit, and had one last meal together, but this time on dry land!

Well, not the most spectacular of endings, but everyone arrived in one piece, and packed up to leave for the airport the next day, leaving me on my own for the next few days. I spent a day or two just relaxing, making friends with the other cruisers, especially Ron & Di from "Batwing" and getting to know some of the other folks in the marina, then started packing up Triton. We made one excursion off to a local "restaurant" that consisted of an open sided brick hut, but the food was delicious and cheap.

Eventually it was my time to leave, and I arranged for a taxi ride to the airport. The road out of the airport is pretty bad in sections, and the ride takes about two hours and costs around $110US. It should have cost a few bucks less, but I didn't realize I needed to book this way in advance, so by the time we'd figured it out, we were being charged "premium" prices. About half way there the cab driver stopped for gas and demanded I give him $30.00 to pay for it. I didn't understand him at first, and he became quite belligerent and agitated as I tried to make sense of what he was saying. I think he thought I wasn't willing to pay him at all. I gave him the money, and we got back in the car and headed off, but a few minutes later he quickly pulled off to the side of the road, got out, and pee'ed on the side of the road. It's still better than the Trinidad Cab Ride From Hell, but certainly more surreal.

The trip threw Managua itself was a bit shocking. Nicaragua is poor. Very poor. But the capital is a pit. A really scary, dirty, ugly pit. There were sections that looked worse than any ghettos I'd seen in Panama, or for that matter, Harlem during the '70s. I was glad once we'd made it across town and had arrived at the airport. I was three hours early, and there was no one at the counter yet, the airport was almost deserted except for one other man, and the automatic check in machine didn't seem to be working, so I asked him if there were any restaurants nearby. "Oh, no, don't leave just yet!" he said, "Stand in this line until they open the counters. In about twenty minutes there will be about a hundred people here, and it pays to be first in line if you want to get a seat." He was absolutely right. In just a few moments there was a queue behind me that stretched out the door. Eventually I checked in, got my ticket and we both grabbed a bite to eat.

He turned out to be a missionary, working in Nicaragua. Apparently you can't swing a cat without hitting a Christian Fundamentalist in this country. The airport was swarming with teams of youths wearing identical shirts with logos that said things like "Walk for Jesus" or "Youth Prayer Council". Several different people waved hello to him as we sat there talking, and I counted at least twenty different denominations proudly displayed on various luggage throughout the airport. Apparently, Nicaragua imports missionaries, and they are doing a booming business.

Eventually my flight boarded, and I winged my way back to the lovely S.F. Bay Area, where the lovely AnnMarie was waiting at the gate. It was good to be home, and I think I spent the next two days just sitting quietly and staring at the wall. I'm only back for a few weeks, just enough time to attend this year's Burning Man Arts Festival, go to my good friends Ted & Suzanne's wedding, and drive up to a fabulous camp out called "Fortuna" in Willits. Then I'm headed back to Nicaragua to sail Triton onward and upward.

In the meantime, we will be rounding up crew for the next leg, which will be Nicaragua to San Francisco, California, via Alcapulco, Cabo San Lucas, San Diego, and probably a few other points in between, at the very end of October (most likely the first week in November) so if you know anyone interested, send us a post at the email address listed up at the very top of this page in red & orange font. In the meantime I wish you all well, and hope your days are filled with adventure and your evenings with passion.

Cheers,

Robb


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